WAR makes heroes out of men, and, perhaps, men out of mortals. It makes widows and orphans out of young wives and infants, anguished souls out of mothers and fathers faced with the grievous task of burying their offspring. Soldiers -- their names etched on molten steel hung on their necks as a badge of courage -- they die so that others may live, sacrificing life and limb in the service of country for a piece of paper with some bureaucratic lamentation, a chunk of metal with some stripes attached to it, or a place in history, statistical most probably; laid to rest in some unknown grave, or soon forgotten in the cold of their marble tombs.
For generations of Filipinos, World War II is just some hazy footnote of a time long ago, 'veteran' is a nebulous term that could mean a washed-up basketball player, and 'The Rock' is the name of a wrestler-turned-movie actor. What exactly have they missed out on, in favor of high technology gibberish and a low density appreciation of the Philippines' storied past?
'The Rock' – or the erstwhile island-fortress of Corregidor – has, thankfully, remained a landmark that we, as a nation, can be proud of. It has endured, mercifully, through time and political upheavals as a homage to the men and women who perished in a devastating war. It stands, ever so sturdily, as a shining monument to a people's valor – glistening in the noonday sun, touching a sentimental cord inside jaded hearts and calloused spirits.
All of six kilometers from point to point, with 2.4 kilometers as its widest distance across, the island bears a striking resemblance to a tadpole and is strategically positioned at the mouth of Manila Bay. There are no permanent settlers anywhere on its nine square-kilometer land area, no communities to sully the pristine atmosphere. Everything that the eye can see is wrapped in green, and when one looks out to the horizon, the scenery is even more breathtaking.
In fact, climbing up the old Spanish lighthouse, one will see a stunning view of the whole island, down to its tail, with Manila Bay and the South China Sea spread out like an infinite heavenly blue canopy in the background. On top of Corregidor's highest point rests the imposing Pacific War Memorial -- built at a cost of $1.23 million in 1968, one of only two war memorials built by the US Government, the other one located at Pearl Harbor.
And the mortars, they are still where the Americans left them. Huge cannons that must have roared louder than thunder when fired towards enemy direction. The caves and foxholes where Japanese soldiers must have staked out in ambush are visibly untouched. The Mile Long Barracks, so-called because the buildings that once served as soldiers' quarters stretch on a 1,520-foot area, stand as mute witness to the havoc that World War II wrought on man and nature.
What could easily be the highlight of a visit to Corregidor is the Malinta Tunnel experience. A 30-minute goose bump-inducing light and sound show, written by National Artist Lamberto Avellana, chronicles the events that took place on the island. The tunnel housed a hospital, an arsenal and a fuel reservoir, and served as the center of American operations during the war.
A relatively recent addition to the island is the Filipino Heroes Memorial, inaugurated in August 1992. The 6,000 square-meter complex features 14 murals depicting the heroic battles fought by Filipinos through the centuries – from the Battle of Mactan in 1521 to the EDSA revolt in 1986. The altar at the center of the shrine lights up every May 6 at 12 noon, which is said to be the exact time when Corregidor and the Philippines fell into the hands of the Japanese conquerors.
But there's more that the visitor can do apart from sightseeing. Steep trails drilled through the dense tropical forest inspire hiking. Not for the weak of heart, the Malinta Tunnel's innermost laterals can be explored at night. Island boat tours will allow one to see the outlying isles on board outriggers. Philippine flora and fauna thrive and lurk all over. A spectacular sunset at the western side and sunrise at the tail side might already be worth the price of the tour package.
Speaking of which, it can be rather pricey for ordinary wage earners and students on allowance. But what price do we pay for history? The relics and artifacts displayed at the museums are sufficient reason to sacrifice cell phone loads for. The shells, airshafts, tunnels and ruins that litter the place are the stuff that makes little boys’ eyes light up in amazement. And the 75-minute ferry ride itself to the island 48 kilometers from the city is a pleasant way to start a day.
Sun Cruises (8318140, 8346857) operates the tour in behalf of the Corregidor Foundation through its 293-capacity Catamaran vessel that runs two trips daily. The island expedition includes buffet lunch at the Corregidor Inn and the services of a very knowledgeable tour guide.
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